Winchelsea is a microcosm of the how the power of nature has created and reshaped the towns of the Romney Marsh; their rise and fall as the most important ports of England; their critical role in defence of the country from invasion; as smugglers havens and the gradual loss of status and economic power, can all be see in Winchelsea.

Born of Sea, Lost to the Sea, Old Winchelsea

Like many Marsh towns, the original town of Winchelsea was formed on one of the early shingle islands that rose out of the sea while the rest of the surrounding area, now known as Romney Marsh, was still under water several thousand years ago¹. In the case of Winchelsea it was on a shingle bank that formed in front of the shingle ridge where Camber sits today. Nearby Lydd and New Romney were also formed on early shingle islands.

Sitting on a shingle bank, surrounding by sea in front and lagoons and river estuary's behind Winchelsea grew into a significant fishing port, with references in the Doomsday book (1086AD) and Royal Accounts in 1131AD and 1164AD. By the early 13th Century, the town had grown to become the third most economically important port in South East England - behind only London and Southampton - and it became one of the key Cinque Ports charged with defending the South coast and granted privileges and rights in return. Some idea of the scale of the original town can be gained from the Encyclopædia Britannica which cites Old Winchelsea as having 700 houses, 50 inns and several churches² - a huge number for a town in the 11th and 12th centuries.

The terrible storms of the late 13th century that flooded much of the Marsh, changed the course of the River Rother and swamped the other key strategic port of Romney (now New Romney) destroyed Winchelsea and the other nearby village of Broomhill completely. The first storm in 1387AD caused high tides hat swamped the town; 37 years later another flood finished off the town. The shingle bank upon which the town sat disappeared, with the shoreline becoming the shinglebank previously behind it (now the Camber beach) and leaving the town submerged.

New Town 

Unlike Broomhill however, Winchelsea was of massive economic importance to the crown and so justified it rebuilding, with the new town sited on a hill known as Iham Hill, to the Northeast of the original town and on the River Brede. The new town was designed to be a port on this River rather than the sea-port previously with the church of St. Thomas situated at the centre of the new town at the top of the hill, and the landings and docks for ships based at the base of the hill - where the Strand House is situated today.

For a short period, the new town retained the commercial success of its prior namesake, becoming a major port for the import of wines, contributing a third of ships for the Gascony expedition in 1297AD and its mayor becoming Admiral of the Western Fleet in 1300AD. Indicators of the success are a series of huge medieval cellars and tunnels across the town and used to store the huge quantities of wine (upto 4 million bottles a year) that made its way through the town. The town church also serves as an indicator of the expected success of the town. Built to cathedral proportions, St. Thomas was vast with amazing stained glass windows; sadly French raids during the 100 Years War destroyed parts and the reduced population (after the raids and Blackdeath) lessened the need for such a large church and it's full original design was never completed. The stained glass windows are still present. 

Silted Rivers, War and Gradual Decline

Sadly, for the town, this success was relatively short lived. Just as the shifting course of the River Rother resulted in the decline of the other major ports of Romney and Rye, silting up of the Brede resulted in Winchelsea's decline⁴.

The One-Hundred Years War with France saw the Romney Marshes on the front line and continued French invasions of the town caused considerable damage and resulted in further loss of significance. Seven invasions are recorded, when Frence forces invaded the town and inflicted heavy damage³. The worst raids were in 1337 when approximately 100 buildings were burnt; in 1359 when a force of 3000 men in 13 ships attacked the town when most of the men of the town were away at war with France and and the remaining population sheltered in St. Giles church. The religious sanctuary meant little to the invading force however and many were butchered, several women were raped, and the church was despoiled - St. Giles is now lost but Dead Man's Lane remains in memorial to those killed - it was up this street and into the church that population ran before being killed⁵. In 1380AD, a fleet of Spanish galleys (then allied to France) bombarded the town, setting it alight and destroying much of St. Thomas in the process⁶.

By the 15th Century the last merchant has left the town and by the 16th Century the town was a pale shadow of its former self, with Sir Walter Religh even referring to its decline in a parliamentary debate on maintaining the tax-haven for Dover in December 10th 1601, "There be divers Havens which have been Famous, and now are gone to Decay, as Tynmouth, and Setow, and Winchelsey; Rye is of little Receipt; Sandwich, (as a Burgess of that Town said this Parliament, Mr. Peake) is even a going."⁷

In 1652, writer and diarist, John Evelyn stopped off at Winchelsea and commented "I walked over to survey the ruins of Winchelsea, that ancient cinq-port, which by the remains and ruins of ancient streets and public structures, discovers it to have been formerly a considerable and large city", summing up the siutation "The sea, which formerly rendered it a rich and commodious port, has now forsaken it"⁸.

Attractions in Winchelsea

Modern Winchelsea retains many original buildings and even its grid street design. Buildings worth a visit in the town include the Town Well (built 1851) so towns folk wouldn't have to carry water up the hill and thought to be 80 feet deep; the Amoury which was built during the Napoleonic Wars as part of the towns defenses and the Court Hall.

The Court Hall was originally built as a private residence but later became home for town bailiffs. Later still, in 1665, Winchelsea Corporation (which governed the town) moved into the building - holding court on the upper floor; the lower floor becoming the prison with the garden an exercise yard.

Places to stay in Winchelsea

Strand House (The) - B&B
Tanyard's Lane
Winchelsea
Sussex
TN36 4JT

T: 01797 226 276   

The New Inn - B&B
Winchelsea
East Sussex
TN36 4EN

T: 01797 226252

Badger Cottage - cottage for rent
Findlay Wilson
Kings Leap
Castle Street

T: 01797-227491

 

Recommended Books on Winchelsea

Romney Marsh, Rye and Winchelsea (Explorer Maps)

 

References

1: www.winchelsea.net

2: Encyclopædia Britannica Winchelsea entry

3: http://www.winchelseatown.co.uk/

4: Local Heritage Initiative - Winchelsea Page

5: RiverOcean Sussex Coastal Walks

6: Time Travel Britain - Winchelsea

7: http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=43559

8: The Diary of John Evelyn By John Evelyn, Austin Dobson, pg 57.

Last update: 29-07-2008 19:02